Water Masterclass. (Fish Rarely Gets Any Better Than This!)

Today is 26^th January, Australia Day.  It made me remember my trip to Melbourne last year, for their annual Food & Wine Festival.  I was very keen for another trip “Down Under” and what with reading and seeing on television how Melbourne has become the foodie capital of Australia, thought it was a great excuse for another visit.  I wasn’t disappointed.  Such restaurants as Movida, The Press Club, Chin Chin and The Flower Drum were highlights to name a few, never mind there many that I didn’t get a chance to visit.  A fantastic excuse to visit again, so I’m not complaining, just an observation!

Melbourne Food & Wine Festival Water Masterclass

However, my main reason for going was for the festival’s premier event, the Water Masterclass.  It was going to be an exciting day, involving some of Australia’s current greats in the food industry.  We meet our host for the day, critic and Masterchef Australia judge, Matt Preston (who was minus his trademark cravat), boarded our coach and headed for the Bellarine Peninsular, South-West of Melbourne, just beyond Geelong.

Sea Bounty

After a pleasant drive down the Australian M1 we arrived in Portarlington, where we meet Lance Wiffen, owner of Sea Bounty.  Lance has been a mussel farmer for over 30 years and has become a bit of a personality in his own right.  We were here for the opportunity to visit his mussel and oyster beds, located in the nutritionally rich currents of Port Phillip Bay.  Lance’s mussels are well known for their high quality and what with the close proximity to the sea and airports of Melbourne, means he can easily supply all of Australia’s states and the Asian markets on a daily basis.

We all boarded a couple of fishing vessels and after a quick journey to the mussel fields; the crew raised a couple of the ropes that the mussels were growing on.  They were so heavy that the boat began to tilt to one side, which isn’t a surprise when it has been known for them to be over a tonne in weight when the mussels are all mature.

On-board was Nathan Outlaw, Cornwall’s multi Michelin starred chef, who as you probably know is rather good with fish!  Nathan was mightily impressed with the Sea Bounty’s operation, suggesting that the waters are so clear and clean that he doubts the shellfish even have to go through an ultraviolet pasteurisation process.  When back on land Nathan gave us a Masterclass in mussels and oysters while preparing a delicious soup with them.

Campbell Point House

We then moved on to Campbell Point House overlooking Lake Connewarre, where we meet  Aaron Turner (ex Loam Drysdale, now Nashville inspired Belle’s) and Jason Jones (B’stilla) who provided a light hearted demonstration of how to smoke fish on the beach, using a freshly dug hole, local wood, coals and a damp hessian sack.  The fish they used was King George Whiting and it barely took anytime at all to be ready to eat.  The flesh was tender and succulent, with the most delicate smoky background.

     

We then relocated inside where we meet the multi award winning Peter Gilmore of Quay.  He demonstrated a tasting dish of scallops accompanied by native coastal greens and a smoked oyster crackling.  So what on earth is “oyster crackling?” I hear you say!  It is inspired, that is what it is!  To replicate this at home, cold smoke your oysters and then brush them with miso, before drying them out in a low oven.  Once fully dehydrated, pop them into hot oil so they become crisp and puff up.

 After the chefs individually cookery demonstrations, we had the opportunity to have a chat with them before moving out to the terrace for a five course lunch they had prepared along with matching wines.

Water Masterclass Lunch

Aaron Turner started us off with a snack of Salt & Vinegar Saltbush, Seawater Cheese & Smoked Butter.  Saltbush is usually favoured by deer or big horned sheep.  However, Aaron has made it attractive to humans by drying it out and adding vinegar powder!  Aaron followed this with a Confit Chicken with Kohl Rabi, Dried & Raw Scallop with Shiitake.  This was matched with a 2013 Port Phillip Estate Quartier Arneis, from the Mornington Penninsular.

Next was Nathan Outlaw courses.  He continued the lunch with Mackerel with Cucumber and Oyster.  The mackerel was Spanish mackerel and had a firmer flesh than the mackerel found off UK waters.  It was served sashimi style.   The accompanying wine was a 2010 Levin Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley, France.  Nathan’s next dish was Snapper with Mussels & Tarragon.  This was paired with another Levin, this time a 2011 Madame L. Gamay.

Peter Gilmore had the final say with a dessert made from Jersey Cream served with Salted Caramel, Prune, Milk & Sugar Crystals.  This was matched with a beautiful Seppeltsfield Para Ground Tawny from the Barossa Valley.

Soon afterwards we drove back to Melbourne, full of food and memories of one of the most amazing days I have ever experienced.

A big thank you to Melbourne Food & Wine Festival, Matt Preston, Nathan Outlaw, Aaron Turner, Jason Jones and Peter Gilmore.  I’ll be back!