The Purefoy Arms – Preston Candover, Hampshire
It was a lazy Sunday morning reading and coming across the description “gastro-pub meets the Mediterranean” that sold me. “How bad can that be?” I thought, so booked a table for lunch.
A pleasant drive through the South Downs National Park and the winding county roads of Northern Hampshire, lead us to the Saxon village of Preston Candover, which according to Wikipedia is also home to Lord Sainsbury of the supermarket chain, but I didn’t see anywhere to swipe my Nectar card.
On arrival we were offered bottled or tap water and handed menus. We were sat in the back dining room. It was not dark, but was not close to any windows and lacked light due to the grey paint used on the walls. The menu changed monthly and in addition to the a la carte menu, there was a wide selection of bar snacks with a Mediterranean influence such as Cheese Croquettas with Romesco Sauce, Boquerones, Pata Negra and Gambas Al Ajillo.
On the January menu, starters included:
Wild Mushroom & Madeira Soup, Crème Fraiche & Pickled Chanterelles
Tart Fine of Winter Vegetables, Monte Enebro, Truffled Vinaigrette & Roasted Hazelnuts
Crispy Squid, Pistachio, Pickled Lemon, Baby Gem & Pomegranate
Cumin Cured Salmon, Heritage Potatoes, Pickled Carrots, Shallot Bhaji & Goats Curd.
Portland Scallops, Turnip Tops, Anchovy, Garlic, Chilli, Put Lentils & Capers.
I chose the Cumin Cured Salmon and my girlfriend chose the Tart Fine. The cumin wasn’t obvious on the Salmon, but was better than being overpowering the dish. The presentation was good and most importantly both dishes were pleasant to eat.
For mains in addition to a variety of steaks, choices included:
Gressingham Duck Breast, Braised Chicory, Carrot Puree, Pearl Barley & Blood Orange
Jerusalem Artichoke Risotto, Chestnuts, Duck Egg Yolk
Line Caught Bass, Portland Clam & Mussel Tagine, Coriander & Piquillo Peppers
Brixham Cod, Chorizo & Chickpea Stew, Aioli & Parsley
Slow Cooked Ox Cheek, Pomme Mouseline, Cima di Rapa, Pickled Young Carrot and Arlesford Watercress
I went for the Ox Cheek and my girlfriend chose the Bass. The Ox Cheek was tender and melted in the mouth and came with a full bodied gravy and buttery Pomme Mouseline, which the acidity from the Pickled Carrot helped cut through richness. Unfortunately the Cima di Rapa was sparse, which I think was made up with extra Watercress and provided a freshness to help cleanse the palate.
There was a good selection of desserts. I had the BFG “Black Forest Gateaux” Marscapone Ice Cream, whilst my girlfriend went for the Orange Posset with Rhubarb. Both went down a treat, the ice cream was smooth with a good kick from the Kirsch soaked cherries complementing the rich chocolate cake.
If you ever find yourself hungry and in that neck of the woods, I recommend you pay a visit. It is a charming, honest rural pub that serves high quality food that is in no way rushed. On your way home you can even pop into a farm shop and pick up some local River Test trout and some Hampshire watercress.
http://thepurefoyarms.co.uk/
